the rhythmic pulse in the sea today gives way to much time of thought and introspection. once the zenith of the break is reached, all there is to do is but sit and wait. lined up perfectly with a dune on the beach, it is the marker of where the peak has been established. in the distance a set seems to be approaching. jockeying just right it seems as if you are in sync with your surroundings. you pass up the first waves of the set and wait for the last one. as fast as the thoughts have come into your head they rush out just as fast. for in that moment all that there is to think about is the pulse of energy under your board. just like that after it has traveled from a far distance away you join it for its last moments and ride it to shore. your body absorbs the energy and it resonates within. the power is stored within and ingrained on the soul. as you collect yourself and look towards the horizon, you realize that's all you need till next time.
Wednesday, March 11, 2009
the rhythmic pulse in the sea today gives way to much time of thought and introspection. once the zenith of the break is reached, all there is to do is but sit and wait. lined up perfectly with a dune on the beach, it is the marker of where the peak has been established. in the distance a set seems to be approaching. jockeying just right it seems as if you are in sync with your surroundings. you pass up the first waves of the set and wait for the last one. as fast as the thoughts have come into your head they rush out just as fast. for in that moment all that there is to think about is the pulse of energy under your board. just like that after it has traveled from a far distance away you join it for its last moments and ride it to shore. your body absorbs the energy and it resonates within. the power is stored within and ingrained on the soul. as you collect yourself and look towards the horizon, you realize that's all you need till next time.
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